# Hit a curb



## iLabmAn (Jan 1, 2003)

I was travelling home last night from a gig at Brampton City Hall, turned a corner and wiped out. My right side wheel (front) struck the curb face on and there was a bang. I managed to drive home with no noticeable side effects. However, should I check into alignment and such? What could go wrong from the minor accident? I have an Escort GT with aluminum rims.


----------



## SINC (Feb 16, 2001)

iLabmAn, any time you strike something as solid as a curb, it is a good idea to at least have a reliable shop do a quick inspection.

You many have knocked the wheel out of alignment, which if not repaired will quickly wear out your tire.

Also, since you have aluminum rims which are softer than steel, it can be bent out of true round, or dented which may affect the seal of the tire in future.

Your best bet is to check it out. Hopefully nothing is wrong, but if there is damage that you can't see with the naked eye, it can be repaired and you and your family's safety ensured.

Cheers


----------



## The Doug (Jun 14, 2003)

Not to be alarmist but definitely have your tire, suspension & driveshaft, and alignment checked. Potholes & encounters with curbs such as the one you had can cause unseen damage that will only become evident later, as your miles increase. You don't want to be at speed on the 401 or wherever and lose a tie rod end, or have your tire belts separate. Also have your right front rim looked at just to be sure - it doesn't take much to damage aluminum rims. Better safe than sorry; an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure...


----------



## Script Kiddie (Jan 30, 2003)

Same thing happend to me last year only I was driving steel rims. I had to get realligned and it cost me $90 at the toyota dealer. You probably need an allignment and a new wheel, as aluminums cant be bent back into shape like steel. Sorry to tell you that!!


----------



## MacDoc (Nov 3, 2001)

I slid the rear of my Windstar in the same way rounding a corner - 5 km hr dead slippery ice the ABM didn't kick in because I had zero forward motion - as far as the sensors were concerned I was stopped  
I went exactly sideways hit the curb with a thump and drive on.
Had a little shake in the rear ( Windstar is front drive ) figured I knocked off the balance weights.

Went in......$800+ dollars later - unpowered rear wheel  
Don't feel bad a Fedex driver flipped on the QEW last night and our staff did a 360 into the guard rail ( broken taillight dented ego ) last night on the 427

Get it checked.


----------



## SINC (Feb 16, 2001)

Macdoc, what year of Windstar? 

I have a 2001 that I won in a cancer society charity draw, and I really like it.

Cheers


----------



## MacDoc (Nov 3, 2001)

I've had a 1995, 1997, 1999 and 2000 and I'm sticking with the last one cuz it's been bulletproof. Drove it off the lot straight to Florida - never an issue with anything - now at 140,000 k going strong.
Mobil One from break-in and every 10k since.

The ONLY issue has been a problem with the powerdoors since I went to the Florida Keys last year - the salt got in and they sometimes have a mind of their own









I finally got off the lease treadmill with the 2000 and intend to keep it for 3 more years or more.
Figure a 5th gen version is pretty rugged. It's a real treat to drive long distance.


----------



## MrVermin (Jul 26, 2002)

> I was travelling home last night from a gig at Brampton City Hall, turned a corner and wiped out. My right side wheel (front) struck the curb face on and there was a bang. I managed to drive home with no noticeable side effects. However, should I check into alignment and such? What could go wrong from the minor accident? I have an Escort GT with aluminum rims.


I have the same car ('94 Escort GT with Aluminum rims) and last winter someone cut me off and I slapped the curb with the passenger side front wheel. I only hit at about 10kph but the damage that I did was extensive. I managed to limp back home but after looking at the front wheel I found that I had pushed the front right wheel backwards 3" and bent the lip on the rim. I ended up having to rreplace the lower "A" arm on the suspension and resurface the rim. 

I would get the allignment checked out as soon as possible and then have a good look at the rim to see if there is any damage there. You should not take chances on this as if the rim is damaged you could loose tire pressure while driving and that would be bad...

MrVermin

[ December 02, 2003, 09:22 PM: Message edited by: MrVermin ]


----------



## SINC (Feb 16, 2001)

macdoc, if you want a Windstar again, you will have to buy used. As you probably know, the Windstar name was dropped and the 2004 models are now Freestar.

Whatever the heck is that?

Cheers


----------



## iLabmAn (Jan 1, 2003)

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

There is a noticeable shimmy now. Upon visual inspection under and over there is now visible damage. Yet, I am going for an alignment tomorrow morning. Also, my rim is scraped pretty badly around the edge. We'll see how things turn out tomorrow. Hope my car bill won't be too high.

Now, my back kills. Yes. damn. Also have to check that too.


----------



## SINC (Feb 16, 2001)

macdoc, I too like the fold down seat.

I assume you too, have hired Allied Van Lines to assist in the removal of your Windstars rear seats.

If Allied are busy, I usually get a crane in for the job. 

Either that or buy a box of beer and invite four buddies over.

Cheers


----------



## MacDoc (Nov 3, 2001)

Yeah that's a serious heart stopper wrestling than rear seat out. Good to have staff around


----------



## MacDoc (Nov 3, 2001)

I may not get the big van again - I think a hybrid or a diesel wagon is in my future.

I've driven some terrific diesels in Europe.
I should get another 60-80k from the Windstar.

I do like the fold in rear seat in the Freestar - they are all built here in Oakville.


----------



## iLabmAn (Jan 1, 2003)

Inspected the car and nothing seems to be bent out of shape. Control arms are ok as are the tie-rods. My rim got whacked a little out of shape, but I moved that rim to the back and had a balance done. Thought about getting an alignment, but everything seems ok; even at higher speeds. No shimmy.

Oh. In installed four new tires this afternoon. That made a huge difference.


----------



## SINC (Feb 16, 2001)

macdoc, my Windstar has the tire sensors and lets me know immediately if a tire is low. It has only come on once in 30,000 km but I had noticed prior to that a light pull to the right.

As for oil changes, ALL my vehicles get the oil changed at 5,000 km intervals. The motor home is the exception, in which I use synthetic and change it every spring, regardless of kms travelled, but I rarely go over the 10,000 km mark.

The reason for changing the oil and filter in both my 2001 Windstar and my 2001 Suzuki Grand Vitara every 5,000 km is simple. Failure to do so voids the factory warranty.

Too many people blindly take the advice of so-called experts and use synthetic oil and extend the oil change intervals to 10,000 km or more. They do not realize that this voids their warranty. A fellow I knew had an engine failure at 58,000 km in a 1999 Pontiac 3.8 litre, which are normally considered "bulletproof" engines. Although he was 2,000 km shy of the warranty of 60,000, he had to pay nearly $5,000 for his new engine. The reason? He used synthetic oil and had only changed five times since new and GM voided the warranty.

If you are going to use synthetic and change every 10,000 km or more, make sure you do not do so, until your warranty has expired.

Cheers


----------



## MacDoc (Nov 3, 2001)

My Ford dealer DOES the oil changes - and I believe that issue of warranty voidance was challenged successfully.


----------



## SINC (Feb 16, 2001)

That is very interesting macdoc. Since my Ford dealer also does mine, I am going to ask the question and see what answer I get in Alberta. I will let you know what they say. If that is the case, I would switch pretty quickly.

Cheers,

Sinc


----------



## Britnell (Jan 4, 2002)

Oil changes should be done every 5,000 KM, not 10,000. Although a good synthetic will not break down as fast as a natural, the problem is that the oil becomes contaminated with crap. If you check the owner's manual, the longer life of the oil is for "ideal" conditions, which do not exist at any time of year, anywhere in Canada ever.

Doing the OLF every 5,000 KM gets you a new fresh filter, as well as time for a tech to notice if things are wearing. 

I only use a synthetic 5W-50 if I am going to be driving from here to somewhere in the US where the weather is different ie February Florida trip.

Remember to rotate and balance your wheels every 6 months.


----------



## MacDoc (Nov 3, 2001)

Sorry that does not agree with my experience or reading - 

"Why are Synthetic Oil better?

Lubricant is not automatically better or superior to Petroleum Oil just because it is or claims to be "synthetic". (For more details see Publications > Synthetic)

However, because many synthetic lubricants are chemically more uniform, and are stable under extreme pressures and temperatures (both hot and cold), and usually do not decompose as rapidly as petroleum base lubricants, longer oil change intervals are therefore permissible.

Modern Premium Synthetic lubricating oils will allows up to 24,000 miles or one year between engine oil changes.

(The same service life that was promoted by Mobil for the original version of Mobil 1 back in 1976 -- no such claim is now being made for the current version of Mobil 1 -- Tri-synthetic formula or the latest Mobil 1 with SuperSyn )

But likewise these permissible extended oil change intervals are based on the expected service life of ONLY 5 years or 50,000 miles for vehicles operated under ideal conditions. If vehicle is operated under severe service operating conditions (as most vehicles are), or if longer service life is required, this extended service interval needs be likewise reduced to one half or one third.

*This means that engine oil should still be changed every 12,000 to 7,500 miles in most automotive and light truck applications."*

How about 409,000 miles with no oil change
http://www.performancempg.com/diesel.htm

I have never once had to add oil to the Windstar.
It has about 140,000 KM on it, it still accelerates extremely well and the guy in service say the engine is mint.

"Dear Has Tech Customers:

We have good news for all of our customers that do not have enough time to have your oil changed in-between the factory required service intervals. We also have good news for any of our customers that have vehicles with oil consumption problems that are higher than normal.

For over three years now, we have been using Pennzoil's new 100% Synthetic engine oil. Pennzoil told us that this new 100% Synthetic oil was so good that it would cut oil consumption by up to 50% and that oil changes could be extended from 3,000-4,000 miles to 7,500 miles!

Since, all vehicles that we repair are normally serviced every 7,500 miles and every service includes an oil change, by using Performax 100% synthetic engine oil you could now skip the in-convenience of coming in for "in between" oil changes!

We have been using the synthetic oil on hundreds of vehicles from cars to trucks! The most noticeable differences have been; (1) Oil consumption really does decrease. (2) The oil pressure stays much higher even in hot weather and high load conditions. (3) The oil stays much cleaner longer. (4) All vehicles started allot easier in very cold weather. (5) We have noticed fewer customers coming in for oil changes!

If you are a regular Has Tech customer that always has every service done and is very busy every day, and also would like to have a little more time to do other things. We feel that the new Performax 100% synthetic oil will be more than adequate protection for the needs of your vehicle. We have dozens of customers that have over 200,000 miles on their vehicle who now use the synthetic oil. They also used to have to add oil in-between oil changes. They now go 7,500 miles in-between changes (instead of 3,000-4,000 miles) and add less oil in- between now than before!"

I do air filter, oil filter and full synthetic change at twice the interval ( I reset the reminder ) and have done since break in.

The vehicle is tow package equipped and has towed boats regularly to 3100 lbs.

My biggest issue is remembering to keep the tire pressure up - wish it had remote sensors. It sure drives better with proper pressures.
Great vehicle tho it took a few revisions to get to that statement....it was a millenium model so perhaps Ford put a little extra ooomph in the attention to detail.


----------



## jtmac (Apr 23, 2003)

For many years, I have been a fan of synthetics too.

They do last longer and lubricate better.

What really sold me was the noticeably lower oil temps after switching. Lower temps must mean lower friction right?

Another bonus is the very low temperature flow characteristics for those chilly mornings. Supposedly, that's when the majority of an engine's wear occurs, at startup.

So, for me, it's 5W30 synthetic all year.
For really cold climes, you can get 0W30 for winter use.


----------



## The Doug (Jun 14, 2003)

I've been using Synthetic oil for years (Quaker State Ultra whatever) and swear by it. Even on the most bitterly cold morning in winter, the car starts on the first crank.


----------



## MacDoc (Nov 3, 2001)

"If you buy a reman engine or have your engine rebuilt, the oil change regime is: at 1,000 KM, 2,500 KM, 5,000KM. The reason is not that the oil is breaking down, but rather than the burrs etc that are created have to be removed. "

Of course that's why engines generally are not broken in on synthetic as that "wear" is important to seat and seal everything BUT after that period there is very little wear with synthetic, very little to be trapped by the filter.

There is so little wear that often original machining marks remain even after 10's of thousands of miles.
With little wear you get almost nothing in particulates and the oil doesn't have anywhere near the carbon byproducts of heat breakdown so the filter stays cleaner much longer.


----------



## Britnell (Jan 4, 2002)

Changing the oil at 5000 KM rather than at 10,000 or more KM is not for the oil itself. A synthetic oil can last a long time in a vehicle. Most "regular" oils can have their life extended by using an oil suplement or treatment.

The point, however, is not that the oil breaks down or loses its protection properties, but rather, that you GET ALL KINDS OF CRAP in your oil as you drive that causes engine damage. If you check your dipstick, and the oil is a dark colour, you have contaminents in your oil and it is time for an oil change.

The reason to change the oil every 5000 KM is not because the oil has broken down, but because you want to get rid of the dirt and particles that cause wear.

If you buy a reman engine or have your engine rebuilt, the oil change regime is: at 1,000 KM, 2,500 KM, 5,000KM. The reason is not that the oil is breaking down, but rather than the burrs etc that are created have to be removed.


----------

