# Kitchen flooring ideas



## MissGulch (Jul 20, 2005)

The kitchen was covered in nice looking Italian tile about 20 years ago, but it didn't hold up and it's cracked in many, many places. All it takes is a misaimed item from the fridge to generate a new crack. Fixing up a kitchen is cost effective if you want to sell a house, so when I have some money I want the bad floor to go.

What have you found to be the most durable and attractive flooring? 

I am going to take measurements using square feet, and would like to start looking for a great deal on something really nice. Can somebody help me figure out how much flooring I have to buy?


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## John Clay (Jun 25, 2006)

Two of the nicest floors I've seen have been bamboo and cork. Both are renewable resources, which is an added plus. The cork has a nice feel to walk on, and looks quite nice. Bamboo has the beauty of hardwood floors at a lower price (IIRC), and faster renewal rate. Both are veneered, so cleanup is easy.


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## kps (May 4, 2003)

Porcelain tile. Much stronger than ceramic, more durable and reasonably priced if you're concerned about the budget. I'm not a great fan of organic materials for kitchen floors and vinyl is out completely.


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## bryanc (Jan 16, 2004)

*As a new home owner...*

This is most interesting to me too. I don't have any money to do renovations at the moment, but replacing the 37-year-old orange-and-yellow linoleum in the kitchen of the house we just bought (and have not yet finished moving into) is definitely 'on my radar.'

I was thinking tile. But that will require improving the floor (I assume), because it flexes and creeks when you walk on it, which would cause tiles to crack.

But bamboo sounds interesting. I might actually consider bamboo for the whole main floor (where there isn't nasty lino, there's equally unappealing champagne-colored shag carpet).

Any other suggestions?

Cheers


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## MACSPECTRUM (Oct 31, 2002)

i put in hardwood throughout my entire place, kitchen and bathroom included

it makes the place look bigger as the eye isn't interrupted by any changes in flooring

i have an open concept living/dining/kitchen


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## kps (May 4, 2003)

If the floor flexes and creaks now it'll flex and creak when you install the bamboo. Bamboo installs the same way as hardwood flooring. The condition of the subfloor is extremely important. There are products designed for tile installation which compensate for poor subfloors. Consider the Schluter Ditra system. It's specifically designed to prevent tile cracking.

My subfloor was 4" T&G pine at full 4/4 and about 80 years old with a lot of flexing and creaks. I re-screwed the planks to the joists before installing my hardwood. Two screws per plank every 16" OC. If you have a 3/4" plywood subfloor, screw on another layer of 1/2" plywood being careful to overlay the seams. Keep in mind that with a 3/4" bamboo floor the total increase will be 1-1/4". You will need to remove your base cabinets, trim doors, install new thresholds and transitions to other rooms.


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## speed300km (Feb 4, 2005)

*Cork is highly recommended for the kitchen.*

I had cork flooring in my kitchen for more than 5 years.
It is easy to clean, environmentally friendly, warm and easy on the feet.
Even when i stand bare footed for hours in the kitchen, it still feels very good.
The floor is the best used in kitchen and bath room as it withstand moisture better than most materials.

I have also installed bamboo flooring (horizontal strands) non-carbonized colour.
Just loved it!! 
During installation, I've used a staple gun and did I really nice job.
When I had to hammer in the nails at the end pieces, I've actually missed my hammer a few times and the floor planks showed absolutely no signs of damage.

Good Luck!!


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## RicktheChemist (Jul 18, 2001)

.


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## MissGulch (Jul 20, 2005)

I really like the cork idea, and found something so cheap I could do it now, and maybe even another room with a torn up floor. What do you think of this? 

Cork flooring

This product is as good looking as the other types that cost more, but I can't find it reviewed anywhere. $1.29US per square foot. How can you beat that?


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## MaxPower (Jan 30, 2003)

You could always get your ceramic resurfaced. andy colour, pattern, texture design etc you want. Stronger than concrete and it looks great. I had my porch redone with this stuff and it was fantastic.

Here is a link to the company that did mine: Unique Surface Solutions.


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## Chris (Feb 8, 2001)

While I like the idea of cork, I'm wondering how it will stand up to animal traffic. Cat and dog both scrabble on the floor when playing, or chasing each other, and I don't know how cork would stand up to that.

I'll be having to make the same decision later this summer, too, so I am following this thread with interest!


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## MACSPECTRUM (Oct 31, 2002)

MissGulch said:


> I really like the cork idea, and found something so cheap I could do it now, and maybe even another room with a torn up floor. What do you think of this?
> 
> Cork flooring
> 
> This product is as good looking as the other types that cost more, but I can't find it reviewed anywhere. $1.29US per square foot. How can you beat that?


very good price
how much does installation cost?

one thing about hardwood flooring is that it never goes out of style and increases value of your home


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## robert (Sep 26, 2002)

The in-laws have had terrible experiences with cork. A leaky dishwasher didn't help either. It has ding impressions in it to.
Linoleum is back and in some incredible colours too. The design/pattern is all the way through. It is the way I am going when it is time to redo the kitchen.
Avoid prefinished hardwood. My friends dishwasher overflowed and flooded the area. After mopping up the water and drying out the area, the boards began to warp. The water got into the uncoated wood from between the joints. I recommend unfinished and surface the floor after you have laid it out. Then all joints are sealed against water.
Good luck with your decision.


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## eMacMan (Nov 27, 2006)

bryanc said:


> This is most interesting to me too. I don't have any money to do renovations at the moment, but replacing the 37-year-old orange-and-yellow linoleum in the kitchen of the house we just bought (and have not yet finished moving into) is definitely 'on my radar.'
> 
> I was thinking tile. But that will require improving the floor (I assume), because it flexes and creeks when you walk on it, which would cause tiles to crack.
> 
> ...


*Please Note:* Vinyl of that age may (probably) has an asbestos backing or underlay. Be very careful about removing this stuff. A better idea is to add a layer of half inch plywood over the old flooring before laying the new floor. This will also help reduce creaking and flexing if you screw it into the joists.


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## MissGulch (Jul 20, 2005)

MACSPECTRUM said:


> very good price
> how much does installation cost?
> 
> one thing about hardwood flooring is that it never goes out of style and increases value of your home


I'm getting an installation estimate tonight from a reliable person that did quality work before. After reading more about this particular cork, I concluded it may be too thin for a kitchen, so I am looking at bamboo wood instead. I looked at your house pictures, 'SPEC, and thought it was very tastefully done. You seem to favour navy, white and neutral shades.

Doing the floor now is jumping the gun a little, but it just feels right. My mother passed away recently, I finally got a little of the estate money and, frankly, something new in the house is a mood-lifter. Looking at the shabby, broken tiles every day is very depressing.


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## MACSPECTRUM (Oct 31, 2002)

MissGulch said:


> I'm getting an installation estimate tonight from a reliable person that did quality work before. After reading more about this particular cork, I concluded it may be too thin for a kitchen, so I am looking at bamboo wood instead. I looked at your house pictures, 'SPEC, and thought it was very tastefully done. You seem to favour navy, white and neutral shades.
> 
> Doing the floor now is jumping the gun a little, but it just feels right. My mother passed away recently, I finally got a little of the estate money and, frankly, something new in the house is a mood-lifter. Looking at the shabby, broken tiles every day is very depressing.


I added a new pic of my floor as a long shot showing how the hardwood floor goes from living room into kitchen and bathroom

In my opinion, it extends the eye line (as does the single colour wall paint) to make the house look bigger on the inside

as for the blue, white and yellow; they are a classic combination
it started with the decision to paint the walls yellow (yellow is a favourite colour of mine) and the white trim, appliances seemed to be a natural combo

the blue cabinets were a bit risky, but seemed to have worked out
neighbours seems to like what i've done so far

http://www.macspectrum.com/house.html
2nd last pic

PS - excuse the clutter
I am going thru my contents and getting back up to speed on filing
I still need to buy something to hold my office files/books and something to hold my clothes and I need a proper couch (blue of course) for my living room as the futon couch is supposed to be a backup bed in spare room


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## MissGulch (Jul 20, 2005)

MACSPECTRUM said:


> the blue cabinets were a bit risky, but seemed to have worked out
> neighbours seems to like what i've done so far


I like it a lot, and your wood floor, too. The open floor plan is similar to the thinking of Frank Lloyd Wright, right? That's what I favour, but not into cracking down walls right now.

My cousin used chartreuse, black and white, and it worked out. Now *that's* what I call a daring combination.


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## MACSPECTRUM (Oct 31, 2002)

MissGulch said:


> I like it a lot, and your wood floor, too. The open floor plan is similar to the thinking of Frank Lloyd Wright, right? That's what I favour, but not into cracking down walls right now.
> 
> My cousin used chartreuse, black and white, and it worked out. Now *that's* what I call a daring combination.


that's very kind, but i hardly think my home or myself anything close to Frank Lloyd Wright thinking
 

i chose this wood floor since it had some grain and knots in it
grain and knots that i used to have in the old wood paneling
still gives it a bit of a "cottage" feel

one of my friends nicknamed my taste as "rural-sexual"


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## MissGulch (Jul 20, 2005)

Home Depot has natural colour wood parquet tile for only (drum roll) .97 a sq. ft. so I think I'm going to get that for my bedroom which has decaying, broken vinyl tile. Do you think it would serve for a kitchen? I'm kinda iffy about putting down something so cheap in a kitchen, although the salesman at the store tells me it's solid wood and there's nothing wrong with it. There's no finish, sans urethane, but it's very attractive in the light wood colour. 

Why am I having so much problem with broken floors, you may be wondering. One would think a herd of adult elephants lives here. In the case of the kitchen ceramic tile, it was put down unevenly and probably was just too thin. The bedroom flooring was very cheap stuff that wore through from furniture pressure, making big holes. It's really awful stuff that my mother never should have bought.


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## Dr.G. (Aug 4, 2001)

Miss G., be sure to have the subfloor level, with unwarped plywood. If you have this, these tiles should be fine for the kitchen. If they are all wood, and not just with a wood veneer, they could be treated with Verathane, which can be buffed to keep the floor clean and looking like new.


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## MissGulch (Jul 20, 2005)

Dr.G. said:


> Miss G., be sure to have the subfloor level, with unwarped plywood. If you have this, these tiles should be fine for the kitchen. If they are all wood, and not just with a wood veneer, they could be treated with Verathane, which can be buffed to keep the floor clean and looking like new.


DrG, Walter (the construction guy) is going to put the new flooring over the ceramic tile he says. I guess he'll cover it with a sub-floor. If he uses wood it will have to be sealed twice, as wood is prone to warping from moisture, making it a bit tricky for a kitchen.

The upstairs with the crappy vinyl tile has a plywood floor underneath, although he hasn't specified what he's going to do with the tile.


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## imactheknife (Aug 7, 2003)

I love ceramic and Natural stone but I may be biased as I install it for a living 

If your tiles keep breaking there can be a number of reasons and one of the them is wire/ mesh installation and this should be avoided at all costs....most installers don't do wire and mesh properly anymore and the fact that it is not even recognized by the tile industry should tell you something....

I always always use my quickdrive drill and re-screw the entire floor along the floor joists before my new subfloor goes down. Tile by itself my make a few squeaks go away but not all of them. Re-screwing the floor makes it a lot more solid.

Wood and laminate are not recommended for kitchens because of possible water damage from sinks, dishwashers, fridges, or even spills. Another spolier is animals but that would go for your whole house. 


Tile when done properly looks awesome and with stands the years of abuse. The only thing is that with lino you can replace when you want a change.

This is from a web site I visit from time to time

By: Harry Dunbar
The system shown below is what is know as Scratchcoat. It consists of wire lath and a skim coat of mortar (usually unmodified). It adds nothing of value to a ceramic tile or stone installation and in many cases ... will fail miserably. 
If you are having your floor tiled with this system ... you're getting the short end of the stick from either the builder, the retail tile outlet or the tilesetter! 
(I was invited to take these photos by the tilesetter doing the work.)

This is a scratchcoat application by one of the largest builders in Ontario. Shown here going over Oriented Strand Board (OSB)

The method of preparing a floor surface for a ceramic tile or stone installation is the most important factor for a successful installation, .... and the "Scratchcoat / Lath " method is NOT one of the recommended procedures. It is in fact the most ineffective base for ceramic tile. It's no wonder that in every respectable ceramic tile handbook, guide, or workshop this method has never been promoted or defended.
The system you see here is meant for walls, NOT floors.

So why are they using it for floors? Beats me. Maybe because the materials are cheap, or maybe because they just don't know better or maybe this is how they've learned to do it and because they've been doing it this way for so long ... they believe it's correct. 

Ever question someone's method and they respond defensively with .... "well I've been doing it this way for 20 years." 
To me that just seems like a ridiculous statement to make. It's almost like saying that ever since day one of their apprenticeship ... they've learned nothing?

The Terrazzo Tile and Marble Association of Canada (TTMAC) tested a scratchcoat system in their lab using all the required materials and procedures ... in many ways, probably even superior to what we'd find in the field. With their permission I've posted their conclusion to the tests given to the system similar to the one shown above.

In the words of the Terrazzo Tile and Marble Association of Canada (TTMAC): 

"This installation failed to meet the lowest level of performance criterion defined by ASTM C627 for residential applications."

American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)

Harry Dunbar is a tile setter around the Barrie, Wasaga area of Ontario and his work is impeccable.


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## MaxPower (Jan 30, 2003)

Instead of mesh and scratchcoat, what would you do instead? I have always used wire mesh and a scratchcoat, without any problems.


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## SINC (Feb 16, 2001)

I use imactheknife's way of laying a sub floor. We first screwed the current floor along the joists, then cover it with a securely screwed down layer of 1/2 inch plywood. The lino went over that. I have never even heard of wire mesh, nor have I ever seen it used in all the houses we have installed railing in for the past two years.


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## kps (May 4, 2003)

MissGulch,

I would strongly recommend agaist using parquet in the kitchen. Especially unfinished, which will have to be sanded and receive several coats of finish. As a result, installation costs may be the same or even higher than tile. The product needs to be glued down and in a heavy use area it will not stand up to the wear and tear.

If you like the look, it'll fine for the bedroom. But the look is out and if you want wood, ease of installation and thickness is an issue, then consider prefinished engineered flooring.


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## imactheknife (Aug 7, 2003)

I use 3/8 to 1/2 inch plywood or 3/8 fibre rock board. In some instances I use cement backer board. If the floor is alittle uneven I will float it. If the floor is really out of level I walk away from the job usually why? because there is usually a lot more going on structurally than the home owner usually wants to pay for.

I also use Ditra mat which is a decoupling membrane and it's fantastic! expensive but I recommend it all the time.

Schluter Ditra, Kerdi, Nuheat and tile products
Schluter systems, waterproofing, Schlüter uncoupling mats, Schluter-DITRA, Schlüter UK

For instance in an old house (80 years +) the span of the floor joists are sometimes 18" to 24". The joists are 2x 10 or 2x12. The problem is the span and deflection. Also another problem is bowing of the floor joists. It is a major cost issue and time issue to make the floor suitable for tile or hardwood and laminate.

Every person I have talked with about wire and mesh have had nightmare stories...

The only exception to mesh and morter is if you still build the mortar bed up to 1/2" or 1" thick then chances are it will be alright but no one has the time for that anymore....thats why scratch coat is now what it is...cheap and fast....You go out west to Calgary and mesh and morter isn't even known out there....

The website I got that info from is:

Scratchcoat is NOT the right method for floor preparation

Sinc, most people in Alberta do not know wire and mesh! I only learned about it when I moved back here 5 years ago. I went back to Alberta for awile and no one new what I was saying.....it's old world and more an Italian Ontario thing. It's only used for tile installation not lino and other flooring.


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## mr.steevo (Jul 22, 2005)

Hi,

In my first place I had to put down a sub-floor before I could lay anything. Money was tight so I decided to make my sub-floor a presentable floor until I could save up for hardwood. What I did is cut sheets of OSB into 2'x2' tiles and beveled the edges. I then screwed them down, used filler on the screw holes, and poured a hardwood floor sealer on top to smooth it out. It looked so good that I never had to cover it, and I ended up selling it that way. A friend of mine has a similar floor but when the floor sealer was applied it was tinted with magenta to give the wook a cherry colour. In the kitchen I used slate tile and sealed it properly. Get a smooth slate if you go that way as it is easier to clean. The bottom two pictures show the OSB floor in general and up close.

I liked slate so much that I put it in my new kitchen. ( immediately below)

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## MissGulch (Jul 20, 2005)

New floor:


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## The Doug (Jun 14, 2003)

Gorgeous - congratulations! :clap:


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## MissGulch (Jul 20, 2005)

The Doug said:


> Gorgeous - congratulations! :clap:


Thanks, took three days, and cost a lot. The installer didn't want to use the parquet tiles I bought for .97 per sq. ft. because he said those were hard to install. I had to go back to the Depot for floating hardwood. Now I have 38 boxes of parquet to return.

My first project as "the homeowner."


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## MACSPECTRUM (Oct 31, 2002)

MissGulch said:


> Thanks, took three days, and cost a lot. The installer didn't want to use the parquet tiles I bought for .97 per sq. ft. because he said those were hard to install. I had to go back to the Depot for floating hardwood. Now I have 38 boxes of parquet to return.
> 
> My first project as "the homeowner."



that floor looks oddly familiar
 
congrats !


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## dona83 (Jun 26, 2005)

mr.steevo said:


> What I did is cut sheets of OSB into 2'x2' tiles and beveled the edges. I then screwed them down, used filler on the screw holes, and poured a hardwood floor sealer on top to smooth it out. It looked so good that I never had to cover it, and I ended up selling it that way.


Your second photo shows the OSB floor? I actually like that. How long did that take you?


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